Travel Journal: Maui – The Valley Isle

First Impressions

Maui is made of mountain views, waterfalls, lush rainforests, and vibrant blue beaches. I’ve traveled to many tropical islands, but Maui stood out to me from them all. Amazing sights are a short drive away, and the amount of beautiful scenery along the way will surprise you. You can’t help but fall in love with the island.

On our first morning in Maui, we woke up early to the sound of birds happily chirping. As the sun rise cast a warm glow over the horizon, we caught our first glimpse of the island in the daylight. Palm trees swayed gently in the wind and lush exotic plants surrounded our resort. It was absolutely beautiful, and my husband and I couldn’t wait to explore it.

Wailea Beach Resort

We spent the first day exploring the resort and Wailea Beach. The resort’s nature trails wrap around a wide array of exotic flowers, plants, and fountains. It was a beautiful property with panoramic views of Wailea Beach: a golden sand beach with bright blue water that stretches about half a mile down the resort-lined coast. It is a great beach for swimming and snorkeling, and is often filled with tourists staying at the nearby resorts.

The next morning we had breakfast in the resort’s Grand Dining Room, where we were seated on the outside patio with a view of the beach below. The Belgian waffle I ordered was one of the best that I’ve ever had. It came with a lavender compote and a choice of coconut or maple syrup, both of which were delicious. My husband ordered the banana bread french toast and he was pretty impressed with it as well. Neither were the healthiest options, but we’re okay with splurging a little on vacation!

Keawakapu Beach

That afternoon, we walked a half a mile along the Wailea Beach Walk to Keawakapu Beach. We heard good things about it and wanted to check it out. It was interesting to see all of the different types of resorts along the way and how they compared with ours. Keawakapu Beach looked similar to Wailea Beach, but it was more secluded and calm. We had plans later on that afternoon, so we went for a quick swim and then headed back to our hotel.

Spa Grande

We scheduled an appointment for Spa Grande at the Grand Wailea that afternoon. The appointment started with water therapy, followed by a traditional Swedish and Hawaiian lomilomi couple’s massage. I was impressed with how spacious and beautiful the spa was. It was no surprise that it’s the largest in Maui! The water therapy area was like an adult indoor water park with a Roman tub, cascading waterfalls, a Japanese furo, Swiss jet showers, saunas and a steam room. My favorite feature was a five zone bath circuit known as the “Healing Waters of Maui”. Each bath was a different color; made of essential oils and heated to varying temperatures. It was such a pampering and relaxing experience that Spa Grande has become our favorite spa.

Lahaina

We booked a condo in Lahaina for the remainder of our stay on Maui. It was a one bedroom unit with an open concept layout, featuring a large living space, full kitchen, and a dining area. It was located at a beautiful resort on the Kaanapali North Beach. The resort had two restaurants and an expansive water park with a waterslide, hot tubs, and waterfalls. We really liked the change from a hotel to a condo because it gave us a chance to see what it would feel like to have our own place in Lahaina.

On the first day in Lahaina, we explored the streets of Front and Dickenson along the well-known “Historic Walking Tour.” The city of Lahaina was once the center of the whaling industry, and became the capital of Hawaii before Honolulu. We strolled by the oldest home on Maui, the Baldwin Home, where the missionary family resided in the 1800’s. We discovered a fence made of coral that led to a small prison building called Hale Pa’ahao. It was very small, and was once used for disobedient sailors and disorderly natives. Later on, we approached the Old Lahaina courthouse where a century and a half old banyan tree fills every corner of the lawn with the twists and turns of it’s branches. The banyan tree is almost two miles long, and is the oldest banyan tree in the United States.

Molokini Crater

The next day, we boarded a glass bottom catamaran to snorkel at Molokini Crater. Molokini is a small islet under half a mile long, formed by a partially submerged volcanic crater. There are approximately 250 species of fish that have been identified in the area, and the sea floor drops up to 50 feet in some areas, making it a great place for diving.

Once the boat was anchored, we got our equipment and headed for the water to explore. The visibility was about 60 feet and the water was a bit cool. Coral lined the crater and a variety of exotic fish were feeding on it. We spotted black durgon triggerfish, blue lined butterflyfish, needlefish, and parrot fish. It was a great snorkeling destination, and we really enjoyed seeing all of the different varieties of tropical fish.

Road To Hana

On the Road to Hana you will see some of the most beautiful waterfalls, rainforests, and beaches on Maui. Hana Highway is about 45 miles long, starting in Paia and ending in Hana. There are approximately 620 curves and 46 one lane bridges along the length of it. It is not any easy drive, but it is absolutely worth exploring.

We planned our day in advance, made notes of the highlights that we wanted to see, and packed snacks and plenty of water for our trip. We used a Maui guidebook, along with a guided phone app that let us know as we approached sights.

We got up early and made a quick stop at a fresh fruit stand with coconuts, plantains, pineapple, and sugarcane. We were surprised to see a peacock running around! Later on, we stopped at a small coffee shop to try the macadamia nut banana bread. It was definitely worth the stop!

Fun Fact: Macadamia nuts are originally from Australia. The first Macadamia Nut Tree was planted in Hawaii in 1881.

We went to the Garden of Eden Arboretum, a botanical garden with 2 miles of nature trails, waterfall lookouts, and a small art gallery/gift shop. There were all different varieties of tropical plants and flowers surrounding the trails, some of which I’ve never seen before. The most impressive tree was the rainbow eucalyptus, with bark in shades of green, blue, purple, and orange. On our hike, there were lookouts with amazing views of Puohokamoa Falls and the valley along the Road to Hana.

We traveled a little further down the road to Twin Falls. It was a short walk from the road to the trail, which lead to two falls cascading over a hill and meeting at the water below. If you want to spend some time exploring a little further, there is an access road for residents along Ho’olawa Stream that leads to more waterfalls. Many visitors do not know about the access road and will move on after seeing Twin Falls.

Waikani Falls (also known as Three Bears) could easily be seen from the road. To get to the falls, it is a short hike under a bridge and through some rocky terrain. When we got to the falls, we were ready to stop for a lunch break, so we found a big rock with a view to have a picnic. After lunch, we went for a quick swim, but the water was a little too cold to stay for long.

Hanawi Falls were also right off the highway. When we got a glimpse of them, we had to stop to get a closer look, because they were so beautiful. If you stand on the bridge, you have a panoramic view of a series of waterfalls that make up Hanawi Falls. The falls are fed by the spring-fed Hanawi Stream, and continue 9 miles downhill to the ocean.

A little further down the highway we came to Wai’anapanapa State Park; a 120 acre park that is known for Pa’iloa Beach: a black sand beach. There were several families camping at sites near the parking lot where you first pull in. Before you take the stairs down to the beach, there is a picture-perfect view of the bright blue ocean surrounded by lush vegetation and volcanic rock. On the beach, we discovered a small lava tube cave that led us to the ocean on the other side.

Waiʻanapanapa means, “Glistening Fresh Water”

One of our last stops was Red Sand Beach (also known as Kaihalulu Beach), which is very secluded and not easy to access. There is a short hike along a narrow path that is steep and rocky. The hike can be dangerous and isn’t recommended for children. The crescent shaped beach lies within a cinder cone and is surrounded by rock that provides the beach with it’s red sand. The sand is very coarse and resembles small pebbles. The contrast of the iron rich red sand and bright blue water is unlike any other beach you’ll see on the Road to Hana.

Mama’s Fish House

After a full day of chasing waterfalls and driving along the twists and turns around cliffs, we were ready to relax. We made a reservation at Mama’s Fish House: a family owned, open air fine dining restaurant that serves fresh local fish. The restaurant had a very relaxing ambience with low lighting and relaxing music. I ordered uku with a lemon butter sauce and capers, and my husband ordered a mixed combination plate of ahi, uku, and mahi mahi in a coconut curry sauce. We were both so impressed with it that agreed that it was some of the best fish we’ve ever had.

Back To Maui

Maui won our hearts, and a year later we made plans to go back to see more of the island. We stayed at a different resort on Wailea Beach than the last time, with similar amenities such as an infinity pool, spa, and restaurants. We took some time to explore the resort and relax the first couple of days on the island.

Black Rock/Ka’anapali Beach

Our first stop was Black Rock at Ka’anapali Beach to go snorkeling. A short distance from the shore, you could see Black Rock, where daring swimmers climbed the rock and jumped off the edge of the cliff. We found a spot under a shady tree to unload our snorkel gear and swam out near the cliffs where the depth of the water reached about 25 feet. There was excellent visibility and the sun shone down illuminating the water around us. A few small turtles swam around us while we were snorkeling and one surfaced just a couple of feet from us. We were able to capture it with our camera before it dove down to the bottom of the ocean.

Ka’anapali means “Rolling Cliffs.”

Tip: If you snorkel near Black Rock, be cautious around the rocky point that separates Ka’anapali and Kahekili Beach Park, as there is a strong current that can carry you out into the water.

Makaluapuna Point

In just under a half an hour from Black Rock, we made it to Dragon’s teeth (also known as Makaluapuna Point). We hiked down a small hill to get to the coastline. The rocks lined up along the edge of the coast in the shape of sharp teeth. They were formed by the wind blowing against the lava flow during an eruption. The view of the coastline and the jagged rock with its lush green backdrop was impressive.

Nakalele Point

We traveled to Nakalele Point, where a blowhole within the volcanic rock shoots ocean water in the air as the waves fill it. At times, the water can reach as high as 100 feet in the air. Every once in a while it would surprise you as the water shot through the blowhole and rained on the rocks around it. It’s fun to watch, but at a distance!

At the other side was the Heart Shaped Rock, a small and almost perfectly shaped heart within the rock, with a stunning view of the sunlit mountains and coastline just behind it.

Olivine Tide Pools

We found a small turnout to park just off the main road that has a path that leads you through rocky terrain to the coastline. The path became steep as we walked downhill, and the winds were rough as evening approached. There was an amazing view of the tide pools within the rock below and waves were crashing around them. We wanted to explore the tide pools more, but the sun was starting to set and the wind was really picking up, so we headed back. We plan to go back to see more of the pools and go for a swim the next time we’re on Maui.

Haleakala Sunset

Haleakala is the highest point on Maui, reaching a peak of 10,023 feet. You can experience some of the best sunrises and sunsets at the summit. We decided to go to the summit for sunset and began our drive in the early evening. It was a very scenic drive traveling between Haleakala and the West Maui Mountains. Shortly after arriving at Haleakalā National Park, we began to feel the pressure change as we drove uphill. The drive was similar to the Road to Hana with one sharp turn after another. Before long, the sun began to disappear out of sight, it became very cloudy, and the temperature dropped significantly. After an hour of driving, we approached the summit of the mountain. We were just in time for sunset, but unfortunately it was extremely cloudy and we weren’t able to see the sun. What we could see was otherworldly: the hills of the mountain were made of red rock and covered with unique plants, some of which were rare species. We had hoped to see more, but it wasn’t a clear enough day. It was very cold and winds were strong, so after spending some time exploring the summit we traveled back down the mountain. Fortunately, we were able to get a few pictures on the way down with the sun setting above the clouds. We still felt like the journey up to the summit was worth it, and we plan to return for a sunrise the next time we’re on the island.

Haleakalā means, “House Of The Sun.”

La Perouse Bay/Po’Olenalena Beach

On our final day on the island we visited La Perouse Bay in Makena, where fields of lava surround turquoise waters with a backdrop of Mount Haleakala. It is the location of the last lava flow in the 1700’s on the island of Maui. We hiked Hoapili Trail along the bay, where there were scenic views of the La Perouse Bay coastline scattered with lava rocks. Next, we traveled through a forest full of intertwining trees. After hiking back, we drove a few miles down the road to Po’Olenalena Beach to go snorkeling. It was a short walk from a small parking lot and the beach wasn’t very crowded. We explored the coral surrounding the beach and we saw several different varieties of tropical fish. It was a very pretty beach and we really enjoyed snorkeling while we were there.